A 1860s purple skirt and bolero

When it can not be made in black, it has to be purple!

Alas my antique 1850s parasol didn't come on time and had to use this one ... 

This costume has a long story. It was originally planned for last year but you know, I can hardly respect my own schedule regarding personal project. So I waited. And waited. I started a fitted bodice last spring (see photos below) but never had the chance to finish it due to lack of time and precocious heat waves; the cotton used for this project is kinda thick and it can't be in the middle of the summer without literally melting in it, including all the undergarments and the false sleeves. 

But when we decided to reenact 1860s in Marlia last September I immediately realized I had to work on this piece again. I needed something lightweight but also easy and quick to make. The challenge was not impossible at all but the deadline was approaching fast. I mean, the skirt was already cut and serged, the facing was already prepared, the trim was already in stock and I had an almost brand new Garibaldi blouse in my wardrobe used just for a couple of shots. So why not making a new, matching bolero?

I already made a 1860s bolero with pagoda sleeves earlier this winter but in bright red, definitely not the best combo for a purple skirt. I had some leftovers in stash of purple cotton, enough to make a sleeveless bolero (remember what I said before about heat waves? Well, we had another one in mid September, just some days before leaving for Tuscany...). I decided to use only materials from stash to save money and time (there was no time at all to order materials online and wait for them to be delivered...) and went for a vintage trim to decorate the jacket, the same I used for the red one. Not the best choice but at least it worked. I went for a geometric design, the best I could achieve with that kind of trim. Something tells me it will be remade very soon after the event... 

The bolero came together really fast, just in a day or 2. It is lined in cotton and with piping around neckline and lower edges of sleeves. It's worn over a Garibaldi blouse and a black cotton swiss waist. The skirt was also made quickly. Most of the time was spent pleating and attaching the waistband. I made this skirt to have a typical 1860s look with fewer pleats at front and much volume at the back; I do not have an elliptical crinoline so it has the same width and length all around. It has pleats facing at upper edge, hem facing at bottom and a side closure. 

The hat is a simple wool brimless hat with a silk muslin veil on top. Gloves and brooch are antique pieces while the earrings are by dear The Lady Detalle on Etsy. 

The weather during the day became too hot to wear the bolero so ta-dah! It was time to take it off and show the world my swiss waist! 

The Swiss Waist was fashionable accessory worn by women to enhance the small waist and add interest to very simple garments like blouse and skirt. Mine was made after a pattern in  "The Victorian Dressmaker book" by Prior Attire. I used some black cottons from stash, some crochet trim and eyelets at the back. It truly makes the difference and I felt really stylish.   

But look at the amazing pics I got with it! 

And that's all for now! Of course I will try to finish the fitted bodice before next heat waves... maybe for Christmas? :) 

A corded petticoat (1830s/1850s)

What is exactly a corded petticoat?
I'm sure you already came across this therm in your costuming journey. Before the invention of the cage crinoline, the fashionable bell shape was achieved wearing multiple layers of petticoats. With  multiple, I mean a lot. Of course all these layers needed a foundation garment to support the weight: the corded petticoat.

Some extant examples...

An original petticoat from MET museum

Los Angeles County Museum of Art

Corded petticoat from 1850s 

Made of several rows of cording, the petticoat helped to support the weight of all those skirts needed to achieve the desired silhouette. The position, dimension, layout of the cording could vary, as well the length of the petticoat itself. There are examples of shorter petticoats, and some were corded only at the bottom. There are two ways to make a corded petticoat.

Method 1: two layers of fabric (cotton or linen) and the cording sandwiched in between (you can use a zipper foot on your machine or a regular one, as I did)

Method 2: corded tucks, the way I chose, keeping in mine that every tuck will make your petticoat shorter so a little bit of math will be involved. Tucks will also add weight to the petticoat.

After this, you can pleat of gather the upper part of the petti before adding the waistband.

My CP in the making... of course over a non Victorian dress. 

Corded petticoats may sound intimidating but they're not. They require time, yes, but I find them lovely to make. They're not something you can do a day before your event. Plan ahead. Plus they also need to be starched but I will talk about this step later.

After the corded petticoat, the standard petticoat comes next. Lot of variations here: plain, tucked, with ruffles or frills, in linen, cotton or silk. I chose to make one in cotton lawn from stash, using several tucks to add weight and reduce waste. My fabric was very long (140 cm) and since I already knew I would have never used the leftovers, I decided to use the full length using tucks. I ended with a petticoat of 93 cm approx without losing a cm and zero waste. So historical accurate after all!
After finishing the petticoat, I gathered the upper edge and added a waistband.

Of course Tiffany had to join. 

Now the fun part: starching! Starching is an essential step when making Romantic and Early Victorian era undergarments. Starch gives strength and helps to keep the garment itself clean, asking for less frequent washing. Also here there are several ways to make or use starch:

Premade starch: chemical, but will save you some time
Homemade starch: natural, made of rice, corn, potatoes.

The starched standard petticoat. 

In every case you need to boil your water and soak your undergarments in a bowl, letting them to dry outside. Once damp or fully dried, iron it and see the magic happen: the starch will give a "paper effect" to your petticoats, which will make an incredibly lovely sound when moving! Check the videos below: