WW1 skirt and blouse (Wearing History patterns review)

So, a long time has passed since my latest post. The Covid lockdown changed many things and I was not in the mood for blogging and talking about costumes. But here we are again! I did a couple of projects during the lockdown, including a WW1 outfit that was on my to-do list from some months. Being a huge fan of 1910s fashion as you may know, I definitely had to try late Edwardian styles. It's not a popular period, especially here in Europe, so when I came across Wearing History patterns I decided I had to try it. Clothes of the period changed dramatically if compared to pre-ww1 years and skirts became shorter and larger to allow more movement since women became more active and started to work outside the house. The blouses lost more of the their frills ending in very practical garments we can still wear today. 

I started with the blouse which came together very quickly and easily. The cuffs have a lovely point which is optional if you aim a modern look. It has a drawstring at the waist for ease of wear and fitting but you can also switch to a fixed waistband. The original pattern followed the symbols and the instructions of the original one, released in 1910s; I never used antique patterns before but once you have sewing basics, you can easily do it (also Lauren has some lovely how-to videos on her YT channel where she explains how to put the blouse together).

I used white cotton from stash and mother-of-pearl buttons as fastening with machine sewn buttonholes. Collar and lapels have topstitching. The fit of the blouse was incredibly perfect and only the cuffs required some alterations but it's because I have small wrists and every commercial pattern fits large. 

The skirt is included in a huge pattern that allows you to make a full walking suit with a jacket for colder weather. I didn't' made the jacket yet but I plan to make it this fall. I used some purple cotton from stash to make the skirt and the same buttons of the blouse. Buttons are just decorative: the skirt opens and closes at front with a series of snaps since I was out of thread (lockdown, remember?) and could not purchase it. This was the easiest part of the project. It's made just of two pieces with optional external belt and you can choose two different lengths: the longer works for early Edwardian era, the shorter for WW1. Being just 160cm tall the shorter length fits a tad longer than I expected but it's ok since it hits my ankles. As you can see the skirt is pretty much high waisted and this requires a carefully fitting if you don't want your skirt to move or fall down when wearing it. There's a inner belt to stabilize it. 

The skirt also needs a little bit of support so consider in making a short petticoat with a ruffle as I did. 

I completed the look with a new antique silk parasol dating to 1917 (it has a looong handle and it's huuuuge when fully open) and a proper small hat made using some black cotton and feathers from stash. I'm very happy with this new outfit and I can't wait to wear it properly with a pair of Suffragettes earrings I just ordered. 

I forgot to add the whole outfit is worn over chemise and proper underwear but it would look absolutely lovely with modern undies! 

Edwardian jumper dress and tucked blouse (1900-1905)

Finally I can talk about this dress! Before we start, I have to add I didn't draft it by my own but I used a gorgeous pattern by Black Snail Patterns for both dress and blouse; I was out of time to draft a new dress and blouse by myself so I cheated, using the pattern as guide for the main pieces and making my own alterations. 

The dress shown in the pattern is very similar to the afternoon dress I planned to make for Venice and shown in PoF 2 by Janet Arnold. Alas, I spent too much time on my 1840s tartan dress and had a very little time to make another frock before leaving. I already had fabric and trim in stash so I could start the work on the dress very quickly; the description says it's a jumper dress, an informal garment worn in summer time with a simple shape, worn over a blouse and a belt. Due to its loose shape it doesn't require a corset so it was perfect for the long and hard day in Venice. Wearing a corset for the whole day was out of question. I wanted to live the day as much as I could without feeling restricted in my Edwardian corset. A simple boned belt would have worked perfectly, and it did. 

The dress is worn over my usual Edwardian layers (petticoat, ruffled corset cover ecc ecc) minus the corset. 

In the following pics I'm wearing a vintage fur, an antique brooch and parasol, vintage gloves and a self made new hat, covered in black cotton and with a vintage birdcage veil.

The construction was really simple. No lining required so measure carefully before cutting your fashion fabric: there's no room for error! The bodice went together really easily: the sleeves and collar have a self facing, the bottom is gathered to get the "pigeon breast" of the era and attached to a waistband. I changed the way the skirt is pleated. The pattern calls for box pleating and top stitching, which I disliked. I moved all the pleats to the back to have smooth hips and volume in my derriere. I also used snaps instead of buttons and buttonholes to close the bodice because I didn't want to get crazy with buttonholes (I don't find sleeves hard as many costumers out there but I find buttonholes really frustrating!!). The skirt and the waistband close with hooks over a placket. Hem, sleeves and collar were trimmed in black to hide the top stitching. That's all.

The pigeon breast is obtained once the dress is on, using the belt as a firm base to hold the gathers in place. 

Before making the dress of course I made the blouse. Very easy construction here as well, if you already know how to make an Edwardian blouse and tucks you're half done. The pattern calls for chest tucks, collar tucks and sleeve ruffle tucks and the chest ones need to be self drafted using the guidelines included in pattern instructions. It took a while but nothing endless. I omitted the lace insertions since there was no time at all. The sleeves have an inner tape to be fitted at the elbow. I find them a little bit long for my arms so next time I will make them shorter. The rest was absolutely perfect, as it was drafted for me! Forgot to mention I used a size 12 for both blouse and dress. 

The blouse looks absolutely gorgeous also without the dress, paired with a simple skirt as I did for this photoshoot. 

1910s walking dress (revisited)

Available on Etsy: HERE

A project from a couple of months ago, at the beginning of the spring. I had to attend a Belle Epoque picnic in Turin in the city center, so I needed a dress elegant and practical at the same time. I didn't want to spend money on a new dress so I decided to restyle an old Edwardian/Titanic era dress I had in my wardrobe. Made in 2014 and restyled the first time in 2015, the dress was actually wearable despite its technical issues but it needed a massive, new restyling. You can read about the two previous makeovers here. 

I basically left it unaltered as it was made in 2015 but I remade the hem (the skirt was too long), the back pleats and the inner seams, including all the serging. I also removed the macrame lace and went for some velvet ribbons, all hand sewn.

And some photos of the event...

And the dress in motion!

It was cloudy and rainy so I wore my 1910s velvet coat. 

The flower under the bust is a tribute to Paul Poiret, plus it's part of my brand's name! The dress form does not give justice to the gown, which looks better on the real body. Unfortunately I still dislike how the skirt falls on the back, plus the neckline is really too low behind the neck BUT despite this, is still a lovely costume I'm planning to wear for another couple of times. I still have to make proper photos with it on so let's keep in touch! 

Edwardian skirt and blouse, circa 1900-1905

I've always been fascinated by the style of early Edwardian era, with those lightweight blouses, fabrics, delicate laces and floating skirts. While I made a lot of 1910s costumes for me and clients, I never had the opportunity to make something earlier for me except an old white dress made after a Butterick pattern. 

Last Sunday I had to act in a very early Edwardian event so I definitely needed to sew something. I wanted something practical but elegant at the same time so what's better than a blouse and a skirt? Unfortunately I didn't take construction pics, the process was extremely fast. 

Fabrics used:

- Cotton sateen in brown for the skirt, flat lined in cotton

- Cotton voile in white for the blouse (Ikea curtain, from a thrift store), flat lined in cotton

- White lace fabric for chest insertion and cuffs

- White lace trim to cover up chest insertion

Blouse was made first. I cut bodice, peplum and sleeves before working on the lace. Cuffs are lined in cotton while the rest of lace is not lined. Sleeves and blouse botton were then gathered to fit armhole, cuffs and peplum. When I was done with the cotton and the lace I attached a cotton tape to refine the raw edges instead of making a facing and hand sewn snaps over there as fastening. In this way the edges were reinforced and cleaned at the same time and I didn't have to sew buttonholes. I used the same tape to make collar hem. 

Then I worked on the skirt. I flat lined it in cotton to add support and I'm so happy with this technique. It truly makes THE difference in how the skirts falls, especially in the hem. The skirt has two deeps pleats at center back and placket opening on the left side with snaps. The hem is turned with wide bias tape. 

I wanted to add a velvet ribbon as decoration to hide the stitching but I was in a rush...

I managed to take some photos before the event. The hat was also made by me last year and it's all made of black cotton sateen with ostrich feathers. 

Necklace and parasol are antique pieces from my collection! I have an addiction for mourning jewelry and accessories...

More professional shots...

More to come!

I'm really happy with this outfit, the blouse fits like a glove and is really comfy to wear in the summer heat. Being white it can be combined with a great variety of skirts so stay tuned!