domenica 21 maggio 2017

An 18th century day in the gardens of Stupinigi...

Last week we are asked to set our event in the beautiful gardens of Stupinigi. The weather was warm and windy, a delight if compared to the heavy rainy days we had in the middle of the week. This was not a didactic event as we usually do, but a living history one without interaction with the public (except some photos or questions when we left the gardens). 
I wore again my lower class outfit which is indeed brand new, and brought with me some sewing and embroidery tools. My new housewife kit I got from Nehelenia Patterns worked great for the day! It's an essential kit filled with essential tools like period scissors, needles, pins, wooden thimble and a couple of buttons; I added my wax, thread wand and embroidery scissors and the kit was completed. 

I'm so glad I chose to wear the cap and the straw hat  in the afternoon. The sun was really strong. 






All photos by Stefania Gusatto.

The new outfit worked great outdoors (in the previous event we were indoors) and the linen helped me in stay warm but not hot. It's definitely not a summer garment because the wave of the linen of the jacket is kinda heavy but for the spring is ok thanks to the cotton lining; the skirt was worn over a cotton petticoat and a large bum pad. The whole thing is worn over chemise and my white fully boned stays I made last year from Norah Waugh "Corsets and Crinolines". I will need a new pair of stays soon since this one has become too large and the ends meet in the back. Le sigh. I worn this only once! The stomacher is then pinned in place to the corset and the fichu is tucked underneath. 

Some other photos...





And yeah, we also acted for an incoming historical documentary!




And, as usual, we took a short video with the costume on: 


Don't forget to visit our page Le Vie del Tempo, we're also on Instagram! 

venerdì 12 maggio 2017

18th century lower class jacket: worn and loved!

And here we are with some photos of the worn thing :) These are not the definitive photos, we're going to take new shots when the weather will be better. 
I wore the outfit last Sunday during our latest event. It was a long fashion history discussion and I've been asked to show and illustrate my white 1860's dress. Argh! The bodice needed to be restyled a week before the event and in the end, I ended to make another one in another size. Definitely faster and better. I'll write a post about this later. 

Let's talk about the jacket. A success! The fit is great, it's really comfortable and above all, believable! It really looks like an authentic jacket and the cap completed the "poorer" look greatly. The skirt was also a new addition and I'm so happy with this chocolate brown linen. Click here if you missed the previous post about this costume. 

And here I am! 


As usual, we took a video of the thing in motion: 


And some live photos taken during the discussion (people were really interested and curious about my total different look):

And that's all for now! I'm waiting for other photos to show you and I can't wait to wear this outfit again this Sunday in Stupinigi.
Take care! 

martedì 2 maggio 2017

18th century lower class outfit from Janet Arnold and American Duchess

Hello May, here we are! I have been quite productive in the past weeks, but not so productive as I'd like to be. Recent commissions took me away from personal projects (aka, the red open robe I introduced in the last post) but I could finish a project that took me months to be completed. 

Hands up! 

I finished this blue linen 18th century lower class jacket, plus a brown linen skirt. The fichu, the cap and the stomacher were already done. 
I was inspired by Outlander while making this and the blue linen I had in my stash worked great for the project. I wanted a middle or lower class look, without frills and decorations, so that I could enjoy our outdoor events without getting worried about dirt or ruining the dress. Plus, I needed something practical to wear to sew/embroidery in front of the public.



The jacket has been taken out from "Patterns of Fashion 1" by Janet Arnold with some basic alterations. I raised the waistline to fit my torso and avoided the sturdy interfacing in the front piece. I omitted the winged cuffs for the moment but I'm planning to add them for a fancier touch. 
The whole thing is lined in cotton. The sleeves are lined individually and joined at the armhole. I serged the armhole for a cleaner look.
The jacket fits perfectly at the back and the cotton lining makes it really comfortable on skin. I'm wearing correct underwear underneath (chemise, stays, petticoat and large hip pads).

The stomacher is made of three layers of linen and it's fully boned. I used cable ties for boning the channels instead of reed (which worked great for my pocket hoops!)


The skirts of the jacket have been drafted using American Duchess hacks for Simplicity pattern #8161. I basically designed two rectangles with a center back seam large enough to be pleated at the side and back seams; I knife pleated the skirts at sides and box-pleated at the back. I decided not to line the skirts but I don't know if it was a good decision.


I still have to take decent photos so for the moment, enjoy these shots taken from my Instagram account. 

After looking at several exiting jackets, I decided to use buttons instead of eyelets to close the jacket. My boyfriend was so kind to make historical accurate buttons for me plus some cording loops.
Some examples:






Now the skirt. Nothing new here: two rectangles and a waistband with slits at sides. I used the entire length of my linen fabric (which is large 140) and then I pleated the upper part using knife and box pleats at center front and center back. The skirt ties at waist with two cotton twill ribbons. The hem is entirely hand sewn using an hemming stitch.

And that's all for now! The weather is not good so we can't take shots outside but we managed to record a short video on Instagram! :)


Hope you'll like that! I hope to see some of you on Instagram as well!

Post in evidenza

Edwardian skirt and blouse, circa 1900-1905

I've always been fascinated by the style of early Edwardian era, with those lightweight blouses, fabrics, delicate laces and floating s...