martedì 2 maggio 2017

18th century lower class outfit from Janet Arnold and American Duchess

Hello May, here we are! I have been quite productive in the past weeks, but not so productive as I'd like to be. Recent commissions took me away from personal projects (aka, the red open robe I introduced in the last post) but I could finish a project that took me months to be completed. 

Hands up! 

I finished this blue linen 18th century lower class jacket, plus a brown linen skirt. The fichu, the cap and the stomacher were already done. 
I was inspired by Outlander while making this and the blue linen I had in my stash worked great for the project. I wanted a middle or lower class look, without frills and decorations, so that I could enjoy our outdoor events without getting worried about dirt or ruining the dress. Plus, I needed something practical to wear to sew/embroidery in front of the public.

The jacket has been taken out from "Patterns of Fashion 1" by Janet Arnold with some basic alterations. I raised the waistline to fit my torso and avoided the sturdy interfacing in the front piece. I omitted the winged cuffs for the moment but I'm planning to add them for a fancier touch. 
The whole thing is lined in cotton. The sleeves are lined individually and joined at the armhole. I serged the armhole for a cleaner look.
The jacket fits perfectly at the back and the cotton lining makes it really comfortable on skin. I'm wearing correct underwear underneath (chemise, stays, petticoat and large hip pads).

The stomacher is made of three layers of linen and it's fully boned. I used cable ties for boning the channels instead of reed (which worked great for my pocket hoops!)

The skirts of the jacket have been drafted using American Duchess hacks for Simplicity pattern #8161. I basically designed two rectangles with a center back seam large enough to be pleated at the side and back seams; I knife pleated the skirts at sides and box-pleated at the back. I decided not to line the skirts but I don't know if it was a good decision.

I still have to take decent photos so for the moment, enjoy these shots taken from my Instagram account. 

After looking at several exiting jackets, I decided to use buttons instead of eyelets to close the jacket. My boyfriend was so kind to make historical accurate buttons for me plus some cording loops.
Some examples:

Now the skirt. Nothing new here: two rectangles and a waistband with slits at sides. I used the entire length of my linen fabric (which is large 140) and then I pleated the upper part using knife and box pleats at center front and center back. The skirt ties at waist with two cotton twill ribbons. The hem is entirely hand sewn using an hemming stitch.

And that's all for now! The weather is not good so we can't take shots outside but we managed to record a short video on Instagram! :)

Hope you'll like that! I hope to see some of you on Instagram as well!
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