domenica 30 ottobre 2016

Claire Fraser yellow gown from Outlander season 2

Ah, Outlander season 2... those costumes, the parisian atmosphere, the luxury of the court... simply amazing. I loved everything, especially the strongest relationship between Jamie and Claire.

Concerning costumes, I immediately fell in love with the yellow gown Claire wears in one of the first episodes of the show:






After doing a little bit of research I decided to reproduce it for our Etsy shop. The dress looks like a typical mid-1700's gown with contrasting stomacher and petticoat but it's not a robe à la française (I would say it definitely looks like a later gown for the pleated back...); it's worn over proper pocket hoops and the outer edges are embellished with black trim. Easy, simple but elegant (and yes, yellow was a very popoular colour in 18th century: Terry Dresbach knows her stuff!) so started to work on this model at the beginning of the summer. 

I sewn in total three versions of this dress in different sizes and this is one of them, created for a client in size 16. 









The fabric is gold satin duchess with contrasting cotton satin printed with flowers; the bodice is flat lined in cotton to add support and it's not boned since it has to be worn over stays. The black organza trim is all hand sewn and attached to the lining with whip-stitches. The elbows are trimmed with a gold ruffle made of the same fabric. 

I also did a version of the short cloak since the client requested it. 



 The cloak is lined cotton to be warm and has a generous hood. 
The whole outfit took almost three weeks to be completed but it turned out really lovely. The photos don't give it justice, I have a couple of photos sent by one of our clients (for their privacy I cannot publish them yet, it seems legit!) and it looks amazing, the back of the dress ends with a slight train and the sleeves look so rich! Yummy!

To order your own dress, visit our Etsy shop or click on these links: dress and cloak. We strongly recommend to choose the right size after taking measurements really carefully! 

venerdì 21 ottobre 2016

Life, vita di corte: a 18th century day in Stupinigi

Last month I could visit the beautiful palace of Stupinigi not as simple tourist but as reenactor. I'm kinda new into 18 and 19th century reenactment (you're probably tired to read it every time lol) so I was kinda nervous about my costume. We were allowed to wear dresses from 1740-1770 so I originally planned to sew a robe à l'anglaise; due to time and budget, I decided to use a beautiful pink satin fabric two friends gifted me last year but I couldn't figure my anglaise in pink. After looking to my books I decided to make Norah Waugh's sack dress (info e details about the construction in the next post).

I finished the dress and hat the night before the event. I did a fully boned cotton satin stomacher with matching petticoat, cotton ruffles, pink choker and straw bergére hat with paper flowers. For sure I was wearing chemise, stays, pocket hoops and petticoat underneath. 
I started with a pinned bodice but it didn't stay in place so after lunch my boyfriend had to sew the robings to the stomacher to keep me dressed up. I'll never use pins again! 





The dress came together quite easily but has some imperfections I need to fix. I wore very few make up to stay accurate: just red on lips, light pink on cheeks and black mascara. That's all. 

The event was about the daily court life so some of us were dressed like aristocrats and others as servants; we spent the day chatting, walking and taking photos, while some ladies from the group were teaching visitors how to drink hot chocolate (yummy!). 
Walking in the palace has been a real dream. Some furniture is authentic, the mirrors are still bright, the tapestries are fabulous. I felt like the Duchess of Devonshire hehe 







Just to say: keeping my hair up was a nightmare. Trust me. At the end of the day my neck had enough and I had to make a simpler hairstyle (not so accurate but I was suffering). 
I spent most of my day doing embroidery. I started to sew a linen stomacher a couple of months ago and still hadn't the time to finish it. 




We also had the time to take some funny shots ;) 



And now, off to the next event of Life, vita di corte: hunting! Let's make a riding habit then! Thanks for reading! Don't forget to visit Le Vie del Tempo on Facebook for more photos! 




venerdì 14 ottobre 2016

Cotton Regency dress: the blue dress from MoMu

Updates at 10/10/2016: I finished this dress, at last! It turned out beautifully. I added a black linen sash to make it more accurate. I wore it last Sunday during a Napoleonic event in Stupinigi and it was a success: it was warm (the day was cold and almost rainy), comfortable and bright! Despite being a day dress is was really colorful and the public noticed it in the crowd.
Below, here we have some photos of the finished dress.

More photos of the event will come in the next weeks!





Hi everyone! I've been so busy in the past month I couldn't write new posts BUT we have something new to talk about. Lot of things happened here so let's get started. 
A local group invited me to join a Regency event and I was really enthusiast since I didn't have new events planned for the season. Despite this I immediately realized I had to work hard to prepare a good outfit that had to be easy to sew, fast to finish, good looking and, obviously, historically accurate. A challenge, but I could do that.
I'm new into Regency costuming so I had to do lot of research before starting to think to my own garment. I had a nice blue cotton in my stash so I decided to save money and use what I already have; I spent several hours on Pinterest looking at extant gowns and faithful reproduction and I immediately fell in love with this blue silk dress from MOMU in Antwerpen. 




The caption states the dress is dated from 1800 to 1805 with cotton and linen parts. Unfortunately I couldn't translate the rest.  

I had everything, the same shade of blue for the dress and lightweight white cotton for the fichu so I didn't waste my time and started to work on that. I wanted my dress to be simple and versatile so I decided to use drawstrings as closure instead of buttons (you can find a good article about Regency dresses closures on Historical Sewing). I drafted the pattern by myself using my Simplicity pattern #8399 as reference. You could ask why I used a Titanic (so Edwardian) inspired pattern to make a Regency dress. Well, the answer is simple: the Titanic inspired pattern has more a Regency line than a slender, Edwardian look, and you can figure it out just looking at bodice and skirt pattern. The skirt is really puff at the back while it should be tighter and without fullness. 


I used two pieces for the bodice and skirt. Since I don't like short sleeved dresses I drafted my sleeves to be elbow length. The bodice is lined in cotton with contrasting blue piping at side seams; the lining has been stitched to the skirt seam for a neat finishing on the inside. I sewn the drawstring channel by hand using blue bias tape and simple running stitches. The skirt is hand gathered at waist at front and back.
The curved sleeves of the original dress are typical of the late 18th century; mine are straight and reach the mid of my forearm. 





I used a temporary sash with bias tape. 
Every hem has been hand sewn for an accurate look. The fichu is made of white cotton and is entirely hand sewn with slip-stitches. 

The dress was finished in a couple of days (I would say 3) but being in July I faced the truth: my cotton was too heavy to be worn in the summer heat (the event was on July 31st...) with chemise, petticoat and stays underneath. I was really disappointed but I preferred to save my health and go to shop for another fabric. So sad...

sabato 8 ottobre 2016

Claire Fraser blue jacket and skirt from "Outlander"

To be honest, I'm not a great fan of cosplay. I prefer historical costumes or historical inspired fashion with personal touches, recreating a costumes as-it-is is not for me. I always have to add my touch to a creation but you know, I don't  make the rules.
With the increasing demand for Outlander costumes I have to change my point of view a little. I started to watch the show some months ago and I fell in love with the amazing and wild Scottish locations; the costumes are great (even if not so accurate) so I decided to sew some quite close replicas for my Etsy shop
I start with one of Claire's simple outfits, the blue jacket with stomacher and skirt. 


My version:





The show is set in 1740's so you can see boned stomachers, stays and bum rolls all around. My version is made of midnight blue linen with cotton lining, boned linen stomacher and lacing rings on the front. The jacket ends with a waist seam and two small skirts just above the hips. They make a really nice figure when worn with proper underwear. 
The skirt is really simple, with a pleated front and back and slits at sides (so you can reach easily your hanging pockets or pockets hoops underneath). 


This one was made for a customer, so I still have to create a version for me (I prefer the brown jacket shown in a couple of episodes). I also did another version without waist seams and elongated jacket skirts but I find it less elegant so I don't think I'll offer it again. I also omitted the sleeve lining for fitting reasons. It's not a big issues since you're supposed to wear a chemise underneath. 



 And the brown jacket I totally love, without jacket skirts and waist seam:


All these items are listed on my Etsy shop and are available in different sizes and colours. Take a look! 



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