domenica 2 aprile 2017

White cotton Directoire dress (1795-1799) part 2

Here we go with the second part of this project. I don't have lot to say about, the project was really simple and quick to be put together (less then a week).
So, after pinning the dress on the dress form to check the fitting I started to construct it. I should have done a bigger size, I admit. There's a nice gap on the back but I'll wear my underwear so...I don't care too much. The bodice could have been more full and gathered, I'll add extra cm next time.

These are the construction steps:

1. I serged the skirt, sleeves and bodice pieces individually. It's not accurate but I need my costumes to last for years and this dress will have an intense use.

2. I assembled the bodice and made a drawstring channel with white bias tape.

3. I attached the sleeves (they're so lovely!) with two small pleats at the back.

4. I opened a slash in the skirt back and made a placket. I love this technique so much!


5. I run some gathering stitches in the upper part on the skirt. I wanted the skirt almost flat and the the back really full and I did it!


6. I stitched the skirt to the bodice and I hand sewn a cotton satin bias tape to make the drawstring channel. I used whip stitches and running stitches with double thread. The bias tape is really smooth and soft to touch.



7. I hemmed the skirt using a slip stitch.This process took a while.

8. My boyfriend made a sash for hair and waist in ruby cotton sateen.

9. Final fitting with chemise and petticoat. I decided to avoid short stays, in pure Merveilleuse style!

 10. And I was done! Photos of the finished thing in the  next post =)

Thanks for reading!

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