1790s robe en chemise and open robe

These two pieces have a long story. I made the robe en chemise in spring 2017 and the open robe at the very end of 2018 and could talk about them only now, April 2019. Two years after but it's worthy. Before we start, I'd like to make a short costume history lesson for those who don't know what a robe en chemise (and open robe) is. 

At the end of 18th century, fashion evolved. French Revolution and the discovery of the classical world influenced fashion of that time introducing a new idea of simplicity; gowns became less rich and trimmed, white muslin dresses began to spread following the famous chemise à la reine introduced by Marie Antoniette in the 1780s. There was no room for the elaborate trimmings of the previous decades, although sack dresses remained in use as court and very informal wear. The trend started with the Queen of France and simpler models like robes à l'anglaise lead fashion to what we call robes en chemise and open robes.

A robe en chemise is basically a fitted version of the previous chemise à la reine, which is more voluminous especially in sleeves; chemises of the 90s featured quite fitted sleeves, shaped at the elbow and often open at wrist to be closed with buttons. 3/4 sleeves were still in fashion but long sleeves become more common if compared to only 20 years before. Robes en chemise were fitted to the body often with a fitted lining in the bodice and then drawstrings at neckline and waistline as their earlier counterparts. They were made in muslin, cottons, silks, often worn with contrasting petticoats underneath. 

A open robe was worn over a chemise dress and crossed under the bust. Waistline began to rise in the 90s, introducing the later Empire line we all know. Corsets were still worn but began to be discarded after 1795. Open robes can have sleeves or not, could be trained or untrained, and could be made in lighter fabrics like cotton or silk as well in multiple colours (I have seen them in red, black, purple, blue, with or without embroidery... the web is full of resources!). 

Now that we all know what we're talking about, I can introduce my dress. As I told before, the robe en chemise was made in 2017 altering  a pattern I already have and was kinda plain, without trimmings; I originally planned to make a red open robe to go with it but never had the time to start it (the red fabric for that became later my 1770s jacket and skirt...). You can read about this two projects here for the open robe and here for the robe en chemise, which is actually divided into 3 parts. 

So at the end of 2018 I needed a comfy dress for my journey in Villa Saraceno (Italy). I needed something simple to move around the house without feeling restricted into a corset or big undergarments. So I took my old robe en chemise and restyled it. I made the back more fitted, moved neckline drawstring at front and trimming it with lot of beautiful net lace. 

Once it was done, it was time to drape the open robe lining. I used the pattern by Janet Arnold with some alterations. I only used the lining pieces to make it. It run big in the back so had to remove some cm here and there. The fronts were a little bit longer but nothing that couldn't be fixed. The skirt was very easy to make, just a huge rectangle with a train. The front edges are all hand sewn. 

The dress and robe were ready for Villa Saraceno but I never had the chance to shoot them properly until some days ago. I'm so glad I waited because now I can show you my improved outfit: yes, I have a wig! I have very long hair, naturally curly, but not that curly to make 1790s hairstyles. They are long, heavy, parted in the middle, perfect for Victorian stuff but nothing else. So, in pure Georgian style, I put a wig on my head to complete the look. You can spot some of my natural hair here and there, I still have to understand how to hide them all under the wig. 

And the robe en chemise without the open robe:

That's all for now! I'm going to make another one in a totally different colour and style using a special fabric. I won't tell you more until it has not started :) Both dress and open robe can be ordered on my Etsy shop, the open robe comes to you custom made!