Making the Kyoto Costume Institute striped jacket (1790s) part 1

I recently ordered the famous book by Kyoto Costume Institute and their amazing collection of extant gowns because I definitely needed some "real" visual reference. With real I mean a material version of the references, without using the web; ok, Google is amazing but you know, some details worth to be looked at closely. 

I already knew the famous striped jacket from KCI and I saw the beautiful reproduction by American Duchess some years ago. Now, with the 1790s events quickly approaching, I decided to make my own version. Unfortunately there aren't photos of the real jacket showing the back so I had to use my imagination to figure it out: it doesn't have a peplum skirt and considering the small tail, this one doesn't have a skirt at all. The back is surely fitted at the back with curved sleeves. The jacket is double breasted with only a row of functional buttons. 

Un post condiviso da Il Fiore Nero (Danielle Fiore) (@ilfiorenero_handmade) in data: 5 Feb 2017 alle ore 07:24 PST

So, after studying the images, I started to draft my own pattern draping it on the dressform. It went together really quickly and yes, this surprised me.

Un post condiviso da Il Fiore Nero (Danielle Fiore) (@ilfiorenero_handmade) in data: 23 Feb 2017 alle ore 02:47 PST

There are no details about the construction methods. American Duchess used a hidden lacing at the front but I avoided this part, choosing a simple double-breasted closure with 5 real buttons as the original. I only need to make the front longer, I made them too short but this is just a mock up.
This is a close up of the fabric I'll use and gosh, it's really similar!

Un post condiviso da Il Fiore Nero (Danielle Fiore) (@ilfiorenero_handmade) in data: 6 Mar 2017 alle ore 07:32 PST

I still have to draft the pattern for the collar, for the sleeves I'll use the pattern made for my black regency Spencer with minor alterations. I will make a simpler version of the cuffs as well.
More photos to come!