lunedì 6 marzo 2017

Making the Kyoto Costume Institute striped jacket (1790s) part 1

I recently ordered the famous book by Kyoto Costume Institute and their amazing collection of extant gowns because I definitely needed some "real" visual reference. With real I mean a material version of the references, without using the web; ok, Google is amazing but you know, some details worth to be looked at closely. 
I already knew the famous striped jacket from KCI and I saw the beautiful reproduction by American Duchess some years ago. Now, with the 1790s events quickly approaching, I decided to make my own version. Unfortunately there aren't photos of the real jacket showing the back so I had to use my imagination to figure it out: it doesn't have a peplum skirt and considering the small tail, this one doesn't have a skirt at all. The back is surely fitted at the back with curved sleeves. The jacket is double breasted with only a row of functional buttons. 


So, after studying the images, I started to draft my own pattern draping it on the dressform. It went together really quickly and yes, this surprised me.


There are no details about the construction methods. American Duchess used a hidden lacing at the front but I avoided this part, choosing a simple double-breasted closure with 5 real buttons as the original. I only need to make the front longer, I made them too short but this is just a mock up.
This is a close up of the fabric I'll use and gosh, it's really similar!


I still have to draft the pattern for the collar, for the sleeves I'll use the pattern made for my black regency Spencer with minor alterations. I will make a simpler version of the cuffs as well.
More photos to come!

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